Say Goodbye To Your Last Evening

With the early fog a memory we spent much of the day in the BC Inside Passage and it was a beautiful day. This was the weather which might have made Alaska look beautiful but the fact is it did not happen. In my experience all the beautiful places of the world, Scotland and Wales closer to home for example, look pretty grim in bad weather. So, at this end of the season, Alaska had perhaps not had a fair rap from the conditions. I’ll admit wide open spaces or at least those apparently unmarked by humans, make me itch. I do not feel an urge to put on a backpack and sturdy shoes and find myself having to do the same thing in the woods that bears apparently do.

I tried to like Alaska and I was impressed by the scale and many of the things I saw. The glacier sightseeing was an unparalleled experience. The most vivid memory; the defeated salmon, of whom I wrote earlier. It would be hard though not to be aesthetically aroused by the gold, green and blue BC evening we left behind as we steamed again towards Vancouver. If the end of the day were not vivid enough, we could add to our memories fleeting views of both humpback and orca. Just the waterspout of either brings the satisfaction of a cruise well bought. Later, dolphins swam playfully TOWARDS the ship.

To move away for a moment from the environment outside to that on board; one thing that has been consistent on all our cruises is the enormous hard work of the crews in circumstances which sadden me. Predominantly male and usually Indonesian or Filipino, the non-officer types on board work extraordinary hours for anything up to 12 months at a time – a 10 month contract is typical. For up to a year these endearing, industrious and charming people are away from home, often from wives and children to earn money which is poor by western standards but much more than most could earn in their own countries. The hours I mentioned, although regulated, are again by our standards, stunning. A waiter might be involved in all three services. A room steward, working hard at the best of times, has an unbelievably long day either side of port. Long after daily duties he will be moving baggage at midnight for disembarkation only to be up again for port day at 0530.

I felt assured that the $11 per guest per day service charge would be distributed fairly as described but, as in any tipping environment, I cannot help but wonder why the wages cannot be appropriate in the first place thus removing the reliance on goodwill which, however deserved, is not always there with all voyagers (or diners). The difference in lifestyle between a 3-4 a year vacation couple and a family man torn from his home for 10 months a time at sea is embarrassing. It verges on cynical and exploitative that the people who serve us so well on ships cannot easily get visas for land jobs or even vacations in the countries which provide so many of the cruise patrons. It simply isn’t fair. If you don’t learn to respect other people here and count your own blessings, maybe it is time to leave the planet.