When we woke we were well on the way into berth at Port Vancouver and only ten minutes or so behind Sapphire Princess as I had expected. To observe the quayside activity for Volendam's next voyage to Kobe was quite instructional. A ballet of fork lift trucks gracefully moved from shore to ship more water melons than you have ever seen and many other less identifiable materials. The noise was cacophonous but in fact this came mainly from construction in the cruise terminal.
Disembarkation was early and formalities swift. We decided, although laden, to walk to the hotel on a balmy morning. The Renaissance had at last grasped our request for a day room and it was a haven indeed. With an internet connection I could only dream of on the ship I began to restart my life and its slightly pathetic addiction with all things online.
I was a little edgy (when am I not?) and miffed with Holland America who had not been one little bit interested in collecting our 1-94W stubs. I really don't want any hassle when I arrive at LAX in November.
We took the lazy option and lunched at the hotel restaurant, outside, and with the view of the harbour that remains between the recently risen apartment blocks on the shore. It is easy enough to imagine a return to Vancouver and we hope it will be a the end of a journey on the Rocky Mountaineer. Why not?
Wednesday, 23 September 2009
Tuesday, 22 September 2009
Say Goodbye To Your Last Evening
With the early fog a memory we spent much of the day in the BC Inside Passage and it was a beautiful day. This was the weather which might have made Alaska look beautiful but the fact is it did not happen. In my experience all the beautiful places of the world, Scotland and Wales closer to home for example, look pretty grim in bad weather. So, at this end of the season, Alaska had perhaps not had a fair rap from the conditions. I’ll admit wide open spaces or at least those apparently unmarked by humans, make me itch. I do not feel an urge to put on a backpack and sturdy shoes and find myself having to do the same thing in the woods that bears apparently do.
I tried to like Alaska and I was impressed by the scale and many of the things I saw. The glacier sightseeing was an unparalleled experience. The most vivid memory; the defeated salmon, of whom I wrote earlier. It would be hard though not to be aesthetically aroused by the gold, green and blue BC evening we left behind as we steamed again towards Vancouver. If the end of the day were not vivid enough, we could add to our memories fleeting views of both humpback and orca. Just the waterspout of either brings the satisfaction of a cruise well bought. Later, dolphins swam playfully TOWARDS the ship.
To move away for a moment from the environment outside to that on board; one thing that has been consistent on all our cruises is the enormous hard work of the crews in circumstances which sadden me. Predominantly male and usually Indonesian or Filipino, the non-officer types on board work extraordinary hours for anything up to 12 months at a time – a 10 month contract is typical. For up to a year these endearing, industrious and charming people are away from home, often from wives and children to earn money which is poor by western standards but much more than most could earn in their own countries. The hours I mentioned, although regulated, are again by our standards, stunning. A waiter might be involved in all three services. A room steward, working hard at the best of times, has an unbelievably long day either side of port. Long after daily duties he will be moving baggage at midnight for disembarkation only to be up again for port day at 0530.
I felt assured that the $11 per guest per day service charge would be distributed fairly as described but, as in any tipping environment, I cannot help but wonder why the wages cannot be appropriate in the first place thus removing the reliance on goodwill which, however deserved, is not always there with all voyagers (or diners). The difference in lifestyle between a 3-4 a year vacation couple and a family man torn from his home for 10 months a time at sea is embarrassing. It verges on cynical and exploitative that the people who serve us so well on ships cannot easily get visas for land jobs or even vacations in the countries which provide so many of the cruise patrons. It simply isn’t fair. If you don’t learn to respect other people here and count your own blessings, maybe it is time to leave the planet.
I tried to like Alaska and I was impressed by the scale and many of the things I saw. The glacier sightseeing was an unparalleled experience. The most vivid memory; the defeated salmon, of whom I wrote earlier. It would be hard though not to be aesthetically aroused by the gold, green and blue BC evening we left behind as we steamed again towards Vancouver. If the end of the day were not vivid enough, we could add to our memories fleeting views of both humpback and orca. Just the waterspout of either brings the satisfaction of a cruise well bought. Later, dolphins swam playfully TOWARDS the ship.
To move away for a moment from the environment outside to that on board; one thing that has been consistent on all our cruises is the enormous hard work of the crews in circumstances which sadden me. Predominantly male and usually Indonesian or Filipino, the non-officer types on board work extraordinary hours for anything up to 12 months at a time – a 10 month contract is typical. For up to a year these endearing, industrious and charming people are away from home, often from wives and children to earn money which is poor by western standards but much more than most could earn in their own countries. The hours I mentioned, although regulated, are again by our standards, stunning. A waiter might be involved in all three services. A room steward, working hard at the best of times, has an unbelievably long day either side of port. Long after daily duties he will be moving baggage at midnight for disembarkation only to be up again for port day at 0530.
I felt assured that the $11 per guest per day service charge would be distributed fairly as described but, as in any tipping environment, I cannot help but wonder why the wages cannot be appropriate in the first place thus removing the reliance on goodwill which, however deserved, is not always there with all voyagers (or diners). The difference in lifestyle between a 3-4 a year vacation couple and a family man torn from his home for 10 months a time at sea is embarrassing. It verges on cynical and exploitative that the people who serve us so well on ships cannot easily get visas for land jobs or even vacations in the countries which provide so many of the cruise patrons. It simply isn’t fair. If you don’t learn to respect other people here and count your own blessings, maybe it is time to leave the planet.
A Metaphor For Life
Yesterday in Ketchikan I saw for the first time in my life the attempts of salmon to swim upstream to spawn. The images stayed in my mind and, this morning, revealed themselves as a metaphor for life. The impossibly strong current of modern day living proves overwhelming for many. A majority wait in the stills taking comfort from both proximity to and common cause with so many others. In the shadows of those calmer waters one fish is indistinguishable from another. Even there though , there is a little jostling and more than a little aimless movement. From time to time a brave soul throws himself into the current to commence the long, exhausting and frequently unsuccessful struggle to move up. There is no co-operation; the only way to make it is on your own. All around lie the bodies of the failures.
Perhaps the metaphor is not complete. The fish cannot cheat, lie or buy their way to the top. They make it through their inner strength or remain behind to be eaten by birds, flies and rats. In the human condition we are blessed with a range of feelings for ourselves and others. There can be co-operation, encouragement and even intervention. There are also perspective and reason. We can choose to stay in the stills and survive to lead valuable lives. We can choose to think no less of those who make such a choice.
Swim upstream if you choose but look before you leap.
This entry also appears in my new blog at www.johnoram.spaces.live.com
Perhaps the metaphor is not complete. The fish cannot cheat, lie or buy their way to the top. They make it through their inner strength or remain behind to be eaten by birds, flies and rats. In the human condition we are blessed with a range of feelings for ourselves and others. There can be co-operation, encouragement and even intervention. There are also perspective and reason. We can choose to stay in the stills and survive to lead valuable lives. We can choose to think no less of those who make such a choice.
Swim upstream if you choose but look before you leap.
This entry also appears in my new blog at www.johnoram.spaces.live.com
Monday, 21 September 2009
Ketchikan
Now we approached Ketchikan our final port on this cruise. A week does not sound long but somehow it has passed in slow motion. The view from the cabin was familiar if a little lighter. Tens of thousands of trees, some low cloud though less than yesterday and a great deal of heavy weed, floating in the water and often giving the impression, from a distance, of being something more exciting.
I saw an eagle flap into a tree and, a little while later, I was equally pleased to see Ketchikan airport and the departure of an Alaskan B737. Float planes were prolific.
Ketchikan, where Sapphire Princess was already docked was by far the most vibrant of the three places we have stopped. Our brief and self-guided walking tour was marred a little by the onset of increasingly persistent rain but it was much warmer than further north. The highlight of our foray was undoubtedly to see the late salmon attempting to swim upstream. The bodies of the unsuccessful were everywhere. The fish in countless numbers even in this essentially urban setting wait in the more sheltered parts of the Ketchikan Creek before hurling themselves into the current to go for most of them, nowhere. There was some leaping but mostly determined, if largely futile, swimming.
The rain and the ubiquity of tourist shops suggested a return to the ship but not before we had bought a beautifully carved stone seal.
I saw an eagle flap into a tree and, a little while later, I was equally pleased to see Ketchikan airport and the departure of an Alaskan B737. Float planes were prolific.
Ketchikan, where Sapphire Princess was already docked was by far the most vibrant of the three places we have stopped. Our brief and self-guided walking tour was marred a little by the onset of increasingly persistent rain but it was much warmer than further north. The highlight of our foray was undoubtedly to see the late salmon attempting to swim upstream. The bodies of the unsuccessful were everywhere. The fish in countless numbers even in this essentially urban setting wait in the more sheltered parts of the Ketchikan Creek before hurling themselves into the current to go for most of them, nowhere. There was some leaping but mostly determined, if largely futile, swimming.
The rain and the ubiquity of tourist shops suggested a return to the ship but not before we had bought a beautifully carved stone seal.
Sunday, 20 September 2009
Green Sea?
If I have one criticism of all cruise lines it is their profligacy with paper. I hope they have robust recycling programmes. Every day on board brings a flurry of flyers almost all promoting some part of the money making machine, casino, jewellery, art. It nearly all goes straight in the bin which even has a compartment precisely for such paper. It is not all waste. The Times Digest newspaper is beautifully written and commendably free unlike NCL’s equivalent offering.
Glacier Bay
In the early light of Glacier Bay it was like sailing through the monochrome of an Ansel Adams landscape. Later, reluctantly, some colour emerged on its own terms. Cloud clung to mountains and hills and wildlife was elusive until pointed out to us by the rangers on board. Even from some considerable distance it was quite exciting to see mountain goat. When pointed out, they stand out as remarkably white and one can only wonder how they got to where they were. Truly only a mountain goat could do it I thought until the captain later reported that a beat had been seen too but slipped from view before the sighting could be relayed to us.
It is very enjoyable simply to sit on the balcony and watch it all go past. We went up on deck to see glaciers including the Johns Hopkins; spectacular and powerful. It was perhaps not surprisingly cold and wet and later visibility reduced somewhat. At lunchtime we circled before the extraordinary Margerie glacier (today’s photograph) and when we sailed on we passed a swimming bear who was a long way from shore and lucky not to be run down.
Greg went to a cooking class which again underlined the value provided on a Holland America cruise compared with others before. He got the lesson, ate the meal and received a large bottle of mineral water and an apron all for $29. Part of my holiday is to catch up on sleep which I did. I have had a lot extra and the quality of sleep away from everything usual, has been noticeable.
In the evening we sailed into the roughest weather of the voyage so far. This does not affect me or Greg. It seemed not to affect others either as the dining room was well filled for another satisfying dinner. Fruit and leaf salads were very fresh but we both doubted that cous-cous was the ideal accompaniment for salmon en croute.
It is very enjoyable simply to sit on the balcony and watch it all go past. We went up on deck to see glaciers including the Johns Hopkins; spectacular and powerful. It was perhaps not surprisingly cold and wet and later visibility reduced somewhat. At lunchtime we circled before the extraordinary Margerie glacier (today’s photograph) and when we sailed on we passed a swimming bear who was a long way from shore and lucky not to be run down.
Greg went to a cooking class which again underlined the value provided on a Holland America cruise compared with others before. He got the lesson, ate the meal and received a large bottle of mineral water and an apron all for $29. Part of my holiday is to catch up on sleep which I did. I have had a lot extra and the quality of sleep away from everything usual, has been noticeable.
In the evening we sailed into the roughest weather of the voyage so far. This does not affect me or Greg. It seemed not to affect others either as the dining room was well filled for another satisfying dinner. Fruit and leaf salads were very fresh but we both doubted that cous-cous was the ideal accompaniment for salmon en croute.
Saturday, 19 September 2009
WP&YR
The rail ride after lunch was very much the kind of thing that keeps me happy. We were hauled by WP&YR 99/110/100 in a livery I would not have chosen and I thought unsympathetic with the carriages. The engineering of the route is undeniably spectacular as is, of course, the scenery. I felt guilty though as I became aware that, much though I was enjoying it, a large part of me felt blasé. You see so much on film and TV that it is hard for anything in real life to have true impact. Just in case you are wondering about my aesthetic integrity I can assure you that there are some things which still do (have such an impact). I sat pressed against the side of my carriage and happily looking down with a composure I would not have felt had I been driving the nearby Klondike Highway at similar elevations. The weather was mostly kind and we tarried – confined to the train – for 10 minutes in BC before retracing our tracks to Skagway.
The commentary en-route was useful but one of the two girls providing it as well as selling a resistible DVD had a voice like an angle grinder. Suffice it to say it carried from one end to the other of the carriage without PA.
As a railway enthusiast I enjoyed the manoeuvres at Skagway before finally leaving the train. More photos can be seen in my album at www.johnoram.spaces.live.com the home of my future blogs.
The commentary en-route was useful but one of the two girls providing it as well as selling a resistible DVD had a voice like an angle grinder. Suffice it to say it carried from one end to the other of the carriage without PA.
As a railway enthusiast I enjoyed the manoeuvres at Skagway before finally leaving the train. More photos can be seen in my album at www.johnoram.spaces.live.com the home of my future blogs.
Skagway
A light drizzle misted my glasses. The arrival of the Volendam had nearly tripled the population of Skagway our northernmost point on this cruise. It was insistently overcast and cool but my fleece was exactly right for the conditions and I happily watched two White Pass trains depart for different excursions. On our first foray from the ship, little was open. For a town boy from the south of England used to the cities of Europe and the US this was strange place. We knew of course that much of its antiquity was faux but the history was there. It has roads where Juneau had not and we saw our first Yukon plates.
Poor communications by Holland America coupled with the usual representation of the hard of understanding meant some confusion over passports – though not for us. The train trips go into BC but the authorities on both sides of the border need to lighten up. The only time Canada and the US were ever enemies was surely in the South Park movie. This fanatical checking of documents is wearisome. In fact it is so at all major ports given the quasi-legitimised porosity of the border to the south.
After a brief visit to the ship we went out again. I have been frustrated by the apparent lack of roaming agreements with providers in Juneau and Skagway and have had to rely on Skype and, occasionally, the cabin phone. It appears some of the shops at least reconfigure for their almost entirely local winter clientele – the last cruise call on 23 September. For the season there is a proliferation of Alaska branded clutter which must, I suppose, appeal to someone. I must say I was pleased with my acquisition of a pictorial history of the White Pass and Yukon Route ahead of my afternoon ride as far as White Pass summit.
Poor communications by Holland America coupled with the usual representation of the hard of understanding meant some confusion over passports – though not for us. The train trips go into BC but the authorities on both sides of the border need to lighten up. The only time Canada and the US were ever enemies was surely in the South Park movie. This fanatical checking of documents is wearisome. In fact it is so at all major ports given the quasi-legitimised porosity of the border to the south.
After a brief visit to the ship we went out again. I have been frustrated by the apparent lack of roaming agreements with providers in Juneau and Skagway and have had to rely on Skype and, occasionally, the cabin phone. It appears some of the shops at least reconfigure for their almost entirely local winter clientele – the last cruise call on 23 September. For the season there is a proliferation of Alaska branded clutter which must, I suppose, appeal to someone. I must say I was pleased with my acquisition of a pictorial history of the White Pass and Yukon Route ahead of my afternoon ride as far as White Pass summit.
Friday, 18 September 2009
Juneau
The long approach to Juneau along the Gastineau Channel features some scattered and attractive habitations but I could not help thinking about their remoteness and impracticality unless you’re the kind of person who likes to kill your own supper.
The improbable settlement of Juneau shone a little in afternoon sunshine. Its existence I am sure is more a reflection of history than modern day need. It is hard to imagine a less likely state capital. From a distance the residences are more striking than the other buildings and, in fact, on closer inspection, some of those others are positively hideous. There is a parking garage to serve the public library and I have not seen such a ghastly example on that side of the Atlantic since I was in Savannah. In Juneau as in the Georgia example, its very existence shocks because they are heritage towns. The houses appear in places to reflect Nordic influences and in Douglas which in many ways must be idyllic, there is some curiously ugly construction. It is almost as though the inhabitants could afford only the view OR pleasing architecture and chose the view.
The Holland America disembarkation process was dangerously close to anarchic as it did not separate leavers by tour time as on all our previous cruises. However, it seemed somehow to work.
The shops of Juneau closest to the cruise ships (Coral Princess was there also) sell standard tourist tack. The only possible attraction was the prices which marked the end of the cruise ship season. Our own vessel would be heading for Kobe next time out of Vancouver. I enjoyed being photographed with an eagle, a bear and a moose but I was overjoyed with my floatplane glacier sightseeing experience. Talk about dog with two tails! I sat next to the pilot so my attention was almost as much inside the cockpit as out. From heights varying between 1000’ and 4600’ we saw the most stunning scenery including, of course, four glaciers. The massively crevassed surfaces veined with blue were like nothing I could have imagined. If you are in Alaska, take a flight.
Tracy Arm
Having passed into the Alaskan Time Zone with at least half my mind and body back in the UK still, it was inevitable that we would get up early. But of all the days to do so this was it, arriving at dawn at Tracy Arm an area not reached from outside by road. I hoped to see both wildlife and ice and first observed the brooding scenery in the lowest of light.
Some small flaws have begun to appear in the Holland America service. There have been substantial inconsistencies in their advice on documentation to be taken on and off the ship and publicity for the clock change was very low key leading, I am sure, to confusion for some. However, our laundry was returned in only a short time and beautifully presented.
It was cold and wet but for the most part the oppressive weather accentuated the grandeur of our surroundings. The first and most striking phenomenon was the blue ice. I thought it might have been dyed to aid visibility to the few ships in the passage but, it turns out, the colour is caused by the density of glacial ice.
Secondly one cannot fail to notice the countless cataracts and their endless variety. They are otherwise noticeable for the fact that they produce the only sound other than the modest disturbance of the ship underway. We were told that these are by no means permanent but were a lucky side effect of the days rain.
The glaciers we saw were distant but extraordinary for their size. Even from a distance they appeared to live, to subtly threaten all below. And yet the irony is these icy monsters are more likely retreating than descending.
For all the awe this is not somewhere I would want to be outside the comfort of a ship or plane. I am not a wilderness person and have no survival instinct. I am very happy for such places to exist as the lungs of our struggling planet but I do not want to be there as an alternative to the comforts of urban surroundings. How I am at some time in the future to explore the heritage of Genghis Khan unless they have gers with showers, I do not know.
Some small flaws have begun to appear in the Holland America service. There have been substantial inconsistencies in their advice on documentation to be taken on and off the ship and publicity for the clock change was very low key leading, I am sure, to confusion for some. However, our laundry was returned in only a short time and beautifully presented.
It was cold and wet but for the most part the oppressive weather accentuated the grandeur of our surroundings. The first and most striking phenomenon was the blue ice. I thought it might have been dyed to aid visibility to the few ships in the passage but, it turns out, the colour is caused by the density of glacial ice.
Secondly one cannot fail to notice the countless cataracts and their endless variety. They are otherwise noticeable for the fact that they produce the only sound other than the modest disturbance of the ship underway. We were told that these are by no means permanent but were a lucky side effect of the days rain.
The glaciers we saw were distant but extraordinary for their size. Even from a distance they appeared to live, to subtly threaten all below. And yet the irony is these icy monsters are more likely retreating than descending.
For all the awe this is not somewhere I would want to be outside the comfort of a ship or plane. I am not a wilderness person and have no survival instinct. I am very happy for such places to exist as the lungs of our struggling planet but I do not want to be there as an alternative to the comforts of urban surroundings. How I am at some time in the future to explore the heritage of Genghis Khan unless they have gers with showers, I do not know.
Thursday, 17 September 2009
At Sea
We were further from land than I expected and as I had not prepared well for this trip I was scrabbling to fix the geography in my mind. Today was utterly grey and we saw land seldom but it was very relaxing. When we were on board NCL there seemed little to complain about until fanatical health restrictions were imposed in Alexandria. Now, only a short time into our Alaskan cruise, Holland America are ahead on points in all areas. The food is very good. Breakfast offered good quality items and the Indonesian buffet option at lunch was delicious. The spa was nicer and from there, between pages of Genghis Khan, I saw a whale. We are benefitting as expected from being on a slightly smaller ship and, extrapolating, this makes it less likely that we shall want to go on one of the new super-large variety unless the itinerary is truly enticing. The internet connection is (so far) superior and I have been able to enjoy it in the comfort of my cabin.
We have, not entirely by design, a relaxing itinerary. There is a lot of time at sea albeit sightseeing some of the time. I love being at sea even though I cannot swim and I do not get seasick. In fact the motion of the ship in reasonable conditions is a delightful way to get to sleep. In rougher waters to sleep is an ideal way to combat motion sickness. There are no morning rushes from the ship which, on cruises, lead to hectic breakfasts. Our excursions in Juneau and Skagway leave plenty of time for gentle walking in the towns. In Ketchikan – the wettest place on the west coast apparently, although Prince Rupert has a claim – we are completely independent.
I am looking forward immensely to arriving at Tracy Arm tomorrow where we may see glaciers calving or may simply see evidence of those which have retreated. At the mercy of both visibility and ice, we have no guarantees of anything.
We peered down from our balcony to see the Canadian pilot leave for the pilot cutter, a Vancouver registered vessel. It is a long way back to the BC capital and I suppose they join a southbound cruise on some sort of rotating pattern. Such existences as people lead you might never imagine until you travel.
We have, not entirely by design, a relaxing itinerary. There is a lot of time at sea albeit sightseeing some of the time. I love being at sea even though I cannot swim and I do not get seasick. In fact the motion of the ship in reasonable conditions is a delightful way to get to sleep. In rougher waters to sleep is an ideal way to combat motion sickness. There are no morning rushes from the ship which, on cruises, lead to hectic breakfasts. Our excursions in Juneau and Skagway leave plenty of time for gentle walking in the towns. In Ketchikan – the wettest place on the west coast apparently, although Prince Rupert has a claim – we are completely independent.
I am looking forward immensely to arriving at Tracy Arm tomorrow where we may see glaciers calving or may simply see evidence of those which have retreated. At the mercy of both visibility and ice, we have no guarantees of anything.
We peered down from our balcony to see the Canadian pilot leave for the pilot cutter, a Vancouver registered vessel. It is a long way back to the BC capital and I suppose they join a southbound cruise on some sort of rotating pattern. Such existences as people lead you might never imagine until you travel.
Wednesday, 16 September 2009
On Board The Volendam
As we set out for the cruise ship terminal after a morning spent mostly at rest it rained heavily. The boarding process was easily the most tedious we have experienced but, viewed dispassionately, it was still over in about an hour. The main delay was the need to go through US Immigration. They did not have all the counters open but it did move quite quickly.
First impressions of the Volendam were fairly good. It is more compact than some ships we have been on and that might be to our advantage. There is huge learning curve on boarding any ship with much to become familiar with. There is invariably a terrible throng for the welcome buffet and today was no exception but it was clear that the food was of good quality. My salads sang of freshness –I ate ice cream too.
All cruise ships are huge money making machines and within two hours we had spent $150 on the spa and $100 for internet. I probably could live for a week without the internet but I don’t want to try. It is available in our cabin which gives one more opportunity to stay away from the hard of understanding/moving elsewhere on board.
I am settling down with Genghis Khan in John Man’s book of that name. A suitable companion I think for one so placid as myself.
We left Vancouver in more heavy rain and the low greyness which hung over the Burrard Inlet meant that it was better and easier to succumb to much needed sleep as we sailed after lifeboat drill than to watch such scenery as there was.
First impressions of the Volendam were fairly good. It is more compact than some ships we have been on and that might be to our advantage. There is huge learning curve on boarding any ship with much to become familiar with. There is invariably a terrible throng for the welcome buffet and today was no exception but it was clear that the food was of good quality. My salads sang of freshness –I ate ice cream too.
All cruise ships are huge money making machines and within two hours we had spent $150 on the spa and $100 for internet. I probably could live for a week without the internet but I don’t want to try. It is available in our cabin which gives one more opportunity to stay away from the hard of understanding/moving elsewhere on board.
I am settling down with Genghis Khan in John Man’s book of that name. A suitable companion I think for one so placid as myself.
We left Vancouver in more heavy rain and the low greyness which hung over the Burrard Inlet meant that it was better and easier to succumb to much needed sleep as we sailed after lifeboat drill than to watch such scenery as there was.
Tuesday, 15 September 2009
Vancouver - Day 2
To be in Vancouver is to be comfortable, mentally at least. Today's humidity was surprising and I was glad that my jetlag was minimal. We experienced a number of frustrations. The Renaissance seems to have little concept of a day room for our return day. Our cells would not ring UK landlines. We roamed onto Rogers with otherwise full functionality. Neither Orange nor Rogers could explain the phenomenon. We did manage to get a replacement for the book Greg had left behind. Today being the 15th the bookstores were full of The Lost Symbol. It was not flying off the shelves and I was not surprised. When it is £3.97 in ASDA, I'll buy it.
We checked out the cruise ship terminal which is hard to do properly with no ship in. I enjoyed watching floatplanes landing but I was uncomfortable with the waterfront development. It has been intense even since our last visit (this is our fourth ) and the high rises offer as much a view of each other as they do of anything else. Our own hotel has some of its previous harbour views restricted and it matters much less that we have a city view - a view which is in fact primarily of the sister Marriott. There seems to be a limited range of colours used for the tall buildings including the apartment blocks closer to Granville. I am sure it is meant to be sensitive but it has, I think, lost something architecturally.
A trip on SkyTrain to New Westminster was nearly fruitless when we found our destination Westminster Quay under construction. However the nearby Dragon Palace provided set lunch at extremely good value.
Whenever I have a limited amount of time in a city I mentally note things to do another time. Seeing more of BC would be great maybe at the end of a ride on the Rocky Mountaineer.
We checked out the cruise ship terminal which is hard to do properly with no ship in. I enjoyed watching floatplanes landing but I was uncomfortable with the waterfront development. It has been intense even since our last visit (this is our fourth ) and the high rises offer as much a view of each other as they do of anything else. Our own hotel has some of its previous harbour views restricted and it matters much less that we have a city view - a view which is in fact primarily of the sister Marriott. There seems to be a limited range of colours used for the tall buildings including the apartment blocks closer to Granville. I am sure it is meant to be sensitive but it has, I think, lost something architecturally.
A trip on SkyTrain to New Westminster was nearly fruitless when we found our destination Westminster Quay under construction. However the nearby Dragon Palace provided set lunch at extremely good value.
Whenever I have a limited amount of time in a city I mentally note things to do another time. Seeing more of BC would be great maybe at the end of a ride on the Rocky Mountaineer.
Monday, 14 September 2009
Vancouver
Arrival at YVR could not have been easier. Having touched down early we were in the taxi leaving the airport even before our scheduled arrival time.
Vancouver is the kind of place you melt into, feeling instantly comfortable. It is neither American nor English but adds the best of both to Canadian.
They are having a warm spell; it had evidently been 22 C during the day and was still warm in the evening. On this occasion we don't have a harbour view from the hotel room but I guess the Club lounge will rectify that - we'll see in a few minutes.
Vancouver is the kind of place you melt into, feeling instantly comfortable. It is neither American nor English but adds the best of both to Canadian.
They are having a warm spell; it had evidently been 22 C during the day and was still warm in the evening. On this occasion we don't have a harbour view from the hotel room but I guess the Club lounge will rectify that - we'll see in a few minutes.
Sunday, 13 September 2009
Time
I have just noticed that this blog marks my posts in Pacific Time, very handy for Vancouver but illogical for Lee on Solent. Anyone know how to fix this?
Today Is The Day
For the nervous not to say occasionally paranoid it is always difficult to decide upon travel arrangements which avoid disaster at the outset. We have a day in hand in Vancouver. Our unusual flight time from LHR made it pointless to be in an hotel over night so we are driving today. The M3 is, of course, an unknown quantity so, to mitigate, we are using the money we didn't spend on an hotel on valet parking.
Before you visibly blanch I should say that the valet parking options at the major airports frequently are on offer and can be very good value in return for simply leaving your car outside the terminal and stepping inside. I can tell you too that having your car there on return is wonderful compared to trekking to an adjacent borough with your luggage and post vacation blues to recover your vehicle.
We hope for the best. How can Alaska not be magnificent?
Before you visibly blanch I should say that the valet parking options at the major airports frequently are on offer and can be very good value in return for simply leaving your car outside the terminal and stepping inside. I can tell you too that having your car there on return is wonderful compared to trekking to an adjacent borough with your luggage and post vacation blues to recover your vehicle.
We hope for the best. How can Alaska not be magnificent?
Sunday, 6 September 2009
Where Does It All Go?
At my age, 53 next month, with so much time behind me, I still find it difficult to grasp where it goes and the speed with which it does so. I shall soon have been in NATS for 35 years; my mother and father, central to my life for so long, are now 82 and both in failing health.
In microcosm, a holiday, so long anticipated, arrives and is gone. My next, in Alaska, is only a week away and I know how quickly that week will pass, filled with work.
I am deeply fortunate to be able to go on so many holidays. Let's hope that this one affords an oppportunity to give something back if only a moment of silent thanks.
In microcosm, a holiday, so long anticipated, arrives and is gone. My next, in Alaska, is only a week away and I know how quickly that week will pass, filled with work.
I am deeply fortunate to be able to go on so many holidays. Let's hope that this one affords an oppportunity to give something back if only a moment of silent thanks.
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